The Wines of Burgundy
Ξ June 6th, 2008 | → 0 Comments | ∇ A Day at a Time, Book Reviews |
The Wines of Burgundy by Clive Coates, MW, is a magnificent effort. At over 850 pages and 34 detailed maps, it is quite simply the finest book of its kind written in English. However, humility is required for the vast majority of readers. The respect for the region Mr. Coates demonstrates is paid forward. Pinot Noir may be the grape of the moment here in Cali, we’ve our celebrated wineries echoed in the mainstream wine press, but in France great Pinot is found down obscure, unimproved roads. The Burgundy region is a labrinyth. As Mr. Coates writes,
“The only way to become a competent judge of young Burgundy is to spend many years at the coal-face; to go down there as often as possible, to listen a lot, to say a little, and to learn much.
“This is what I do. Sadly, I seem to be largely alone. There are many growers I visit who have never seen another writer; many cellars who would dearly love to welcome others to explain what they are trying to do.”
Alan Meadows of Burghound fame notwithstanding, the reasons for Mr. Coates’ solitary toil are multiple.
Firstly is the recent history of the region. Mr. Coates writes,
“A generation or more ago, Burgundy was on its knees. Over-fertilization in the 1960s and 1970s, the introduction of high-yield, low quality clones and the clampdown on bolster wines from the south of France and Algeria all led to wine which was thin, pallid, fruitless and short-lived.”
(Eric Asimov recently provides a more pointed gloss.)
Secondly, “Burgundy has been much maligned-more so than any other region-by certain elements of the media”. By which he means Robert Parker and Wine Spectator. Of the latter he says, “Wine Spectator has criticised the increasing bunch of estates that refuse to play ball with its modus operandi […]”. For Parker’s recently minted sentiments see Asimov’s article linked above.
And lastly is the difficulty of finding in the States a very high percentage of the wines he reviews. No small matter.
Mr. Coates also provides instructive notes on the critical concept of Terroir, especially relevant in Burgundy. He improves on many normative wine texts with a persistent emphasis on Global Warming and viticultural improvements.
“It is alarming to see how much damage can be done so rapidly. Through a combination of ignorance, negligence, cynicism and a regard for solely short-term profit […] the Burgundian vineyard was reduced to the status of almost desert […]”
He discusses both Organic and Biodynamic innovations in the region. The latter method he finds mysterious yet praiseworthy:
“Sometimes the extremes of biodynamism sound like black magic. But the point is: it works. We should learn not to scoff.”
More concretely the book provides, in the main, vineyard and domaine specifics, owners, hectares under cultivation, and notes on the wide variety of wine-making techniques used:
“All one has to do is permute between zero and 100 percent stems, use zero to 100 percent new wood, ferment at temperatures from 25 C all the way up to 35 C and above, and employ cold soaking or not.”
Mr. Coates is well into his 60’s yet he continues to explore and to learn. Under the guise of a sedate, ‘old world’ writer of thick books he nevertheless remains a radical. I encourage every serious student of wine to read this book, but especially novice drinkers of Cali Pinots. Much will not be understood, and that is a good thing. Books like his stand as humbling reminders of where we stand with respect to wine knowledge.
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