An Antipodean anthology
Ξ June 23rd, 2008 | → 0 Comments | ∇ A Day at a Time, International Terroirs, Tasting Notes, Wine History, Wine News |
In 1788 Captain Arthur Philip sailed the first fleet into Botany Bay, eventually founding a colony that would stretch across a continent and become the Commonwealth of Australia. Two hundred twenty years later I landed in Botany Bay, now a major port, southern suburb of Sydney and the site of Sydney International airport. I don’t visit Australia much, in fact this trip was the first time in over 10 years, and as there’s no guarantee I’ll be going back any time soon I guess this article is going to cover a range of loosely related topics.
Australia has a long history with wine, the first cuttings arrived with Captain Philip in 1788 and today the country is the 6th largest wine producer and 4th largest wine exporter. Severe and extended drought meant 2007 was a bad year for the country with a 32% drop in production but better weather this season has seen an improved 2008 vintage with forecasts suggesting full recovery by 2009. The U.K. is the largest export market (just ahead of the U.S.) accounting for approximately 30% of Aussie exports and nearly 25% of total Australian wine production.
My first taste of wine this trip came after a pleasant walk around the commercial district and Sydney harbour on a sunny Saturday afternoon. On my way back to the hotel I chanced upon the CBD Cellars store in Carrington Street and wandered there for a while trying to decide on something to drink back in my room. I was sorely tempted by a bottle of Two Paddocks Pinot Noir, produced in Central Otago from Sam Neil’s vineyards, but it was a little out of my price range (approx $50) for an easy drinking red, so I ended up with Norman’s 2004 Old Vine Grenache from the McLaren Vale for $20 (the winery was established in 1853 and is now part of the Cockatoo Ridge group). This had spicy vanilla and black fruits with some floral hints, very smooth tannins, fruity mid-palate and an oaky, long finish with a touch of sweetness. There was a nice mix of flavours, not too much acid and some bitterness but it hid its 15% alcohol very well – 4 Stars and a thumbs up from yours truly (in old money that’s about 88-89pts!).
The McLaren Vale was first planted in 1838 by John Reynell and Thomas Hardy and, with its South Australian neighbour the Barossa Valley, is home to one of Australia’s hidden gems –Grenache, with some vines more than 100 years old. When not bottled as a single varietal Grenache is blended with Shiraz or Mourverdre (Mataro) in a Rhone style, with some of the more famous producers from these two regions include D’Arenberg and Grant Burge. I really like the style of wines coming out of this region, and later on in the week I also tasted the delicious “The Fakir” Grenache from Magpie Estate. 
As I was in town over the Queen’s Birthday holiday weekend I looked at signing up for a day trip to the Hunter valley, the nearest wine region to Sydney. Unfortunately both Sunday and Monday tours were fully booked - although in hindsight I’m not too disappointed, it rained both days and on the Monday evening I dined at Garfish (see previous article) so all was not lost! Saying that I would recommend a trip to this area, home to some well-known names in the industry including Tyrrells, Lindemans and McGuigan (recently rebranded as Australian Vintage). This difficult wine area, the most Northerly in Australian commercial production, is famous for its Shiraz, such as the Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz, and Semillon, such as Tyrrells Vat 1.
As for the rest of my visit (when I wasn’t doing the day job) I tried a few glasses in several bars and restaurants - of note as 3-Star everyday drinkers were the Printhie 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, from the Orange region west of Sydney, and two delicious Rieslings: the Joshua Tree 2007 from Clare Valley and St. Hallet’s 2007 from Eden Valley, both of which had classic Riesling aromas and refreshing taste.
After a week down-under, and with my body just starting to acclimatize to the 10 hour time difference, it was time to come home again.
In my case were two bottles to add to the cellar;
First a Hunter Valley Semillon from Mount Vincent Estate, their 2006 Morisset which I got for $25 (from CBD Cellars again). This should age well for the next several years to give me a memorable taste of the Hunter Valley that I didn’t get to see.
Secondly a bottle I received as a gift from a friend, Russell, who I dined with at Garfish. He has links with the Reschke winery in Coonawarra and gave me a bottle of their “Bull Trader” 2004 Cabernet Merlot. Coonawarra in South Australia, is famous for its “Terra Rossa” soil and producing quality Cabernet Sauvignon, so I’m optimistic for this wine’s potential when I finally decide to open it (apparently it shows well in its youth but time will add even more complexity – I feel a kindred spirit!).
These bottles will join my existing collection of Australian wines which make up just fewer than 12% of my collection, on par with Italy and second only to France in my cellar.
In the U.K., and increasingly in the U.S., the availability and range of Australian wine in our shops means that there will always be a lot to choose from, unfortunately there is a regrettable tendency of the bulk brands to homogenize the styles by blending grapes sourced from across states. SouthEastern Australia, so often seen on cheaper bottles, covers an area equivalent to the Western United States and there can be no regional style detected from these fruit forward, early drinking but ultimately unfulfilling wines. Not much further up the price points however the different sub-regions have evolved an understanding of Terroir that is becoming apparent in offerings such as Hunter Valley Shiraz & Semillon, Coonawarra Cabernet and South Australian Grenache. I hope you get a chance to try some of these.
Greybeard.
