Mondovino’s Aimé Guibert of Le Domaine de Daumas Gassac. Bastille Day interview.
Ξ July 13th, 2008 | → 0 Comments | ∇ Uncategorized |
On this Bastille Day may I suggest few persons better sum up the independent esprit of the French vigneron than Aimé Guibert of Le Domaine de Daumas Gassac. Fixed in the popular imagination, for better or ill, by his dour utterances in the comédie humaine that is the film Mondovino, yet Monsieur Guibert is far more complex. Like most of us, for him love of family is the highest good. His deep feeling for country is no different than ours. He is well read, lives the life of the mind despite his advancing years.
But notoriety invites reaction or celebrity, and follows upon the public’s choosing of sides. Such has happened with Monsieur Guibert, no less than French wine itself. Vigorous debates swirl about the relative merits of Old and New World wines styles, rising alc levels, the niaiserie of scores, increasing dependance on organoleptic technologies in the winery, etc., all important discussions, to be sure, but very often they isolate lead characters given limited speaking rôles.
Reign of Terroir’s ethical position is to put people back into play, as it were. Here is a marvelous quote from Roland Barthes, the great French cultural critic, which gets at the heart of matter:
When I used to play prisoner’s base in the Luxembourg, what I liked best was not provoking the other team and boldly exposing myself to their right to take me prisoner; what I liked best was to free the prisoners–the effect of which was to put both teams back into circulation: the game started over again at zero.
In the great game of the powers of speech, we also play prisoner’s base: one language has only temporary rights over another; all it takes is for a third language to appear from the ranks for the assailant to be forced into retreat: in the conflict of rhetorics, the victory never goes to any but the third language. The task of this language is to release the prisoners: to scatter the signifieds, the catechisms. As in prisoner’s base, language upon language, to infinity, such is the law which governs the logosphere. Whence other images: that of choosing up hand over hand (the third hand returns, it is no longer the first one), that of scissors, paper, stone, that of the onion in its layers of skin without a core. That difference should not be paid for by any subjection: no last word. [emphasis added]
And now, the laconic interview.
Admin Would you tell us how you came to know Professor Enjalbert, the gentleman who initially discovered the unique terroir of the Daumas property?
Aimé Guibert Enjalbert is a personal friend from Aveyron. Aveyron is one of the truly Gallic department; one could say “gallic tribe”.
How is it you took him at his word? I mean to ask, given that you and Véronique had no experience with grapes how did you both decide on the vine?
A.G. As an “Aveyronnais”, he deserved my confidence.
Where did you find your first Cabernet Sauvignon vines? What Bordeaux properties were sourced for cuttings?
A.G. Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux 1910, came from a small collection, destroyed nowadays. Even in Bordeaux, it is quite hard today to find a Cabernet from before clone and massal selection.
Your first bottling, the 1980, when did you drink the last bottle? Or do you still have a few bottles left?
A.G. On Peynaud’s strong advice, we have kept a few hundred bottles of each of our vintage from 1978.
You began farming ‘organically’ back in the early ’80s. What were the rules in France then? Does ‘organic’ mean something different today?
A.G. Any natural product could be accepted. Any product of “man synthese” is not accepted.
And while we’re on the topic, what is your understanding of Biodynamics?
A.G. Traditionnal European farming is our unique rule.
How has the Languedoc benefited from your efforts? Have wineries responded to your innovations? Of course, in the early days quality improved, without a doubt. But now, in 2008, what may we say of the Languedoc as a whole?
A.G. Still alone in our respect for the traditional rules, but Languedoc has made tremendous progress towards quality wines.
Your resistance to globalization is well known. I, myself, find your’s the proper stance especially if one’s community hopes to preserve local knowledge. What is lost to technological innovation? What does a vigneron come to mean in a world dedicated to repetition, sameness?
A.G. Globalisation means big volume, big money and fascist like economic power. I am against any fascism. Read the bible.
And CRAV, the Comité regional d’action viticole, how do you understand their actions? Are they relevant?
A.G. No comment on any of the hundred “comité…”
Leaving abstractions behind, could you tell us about your vineyards? What actions do you employ? Irrigation? Copper? And in light of the recent poor weather around Aniane what do you intend to do?
A.G. Our vineyard is a genuine community vineyard of fifty of the best European historical varieties.
And in the winery, would you tell us a little about your barrel regimen, yeasts used, blending?
A.G. Read Emile Peynaud, he is the perfect answer to deal with natural conditions.
What do you do in a poor vintage?
A.G. When you pick from 20 to 35 hectolitres on average per hectare, from a non-cloned vineyard, you never have a really poor vintage; You have top quality ones and medium quality ones.
Is Global Warming apparent in the Languedoc?
A.G. What means “global warming”?
Climate change. Have you noticed it in the vineyard?
A.G. [No answer was given.]
The film Mondovino is an unavoidable topic. Have you spoken with Jonathan Nossiter in recent years?
A.G. I love the poet Jonathan. But I haven’t had any calls from him for years.
Have you read his book, Le Goût et le pouvoir? Your opinion?
A.G. A clever love declaration to Burgundy and Burgundy vignerons.
And I simply must ask, what is your present understanding of Michel Rolland?
A.G. A fine money maker like millions of people today.
Do you have any words upon the passing of Robert Mondavi?
A.G. Robert Mondavi was a real man who deserves respect.
What is Véronique’s role in Le Domaine Daumas Gassac?
A.G. Nothing could exist without Veronique’s influence and wisdom.
And Samuel, your eldest son, in what direction will he take the family winery?
A.G. I have three good sons involved in Daumas Gassac, Samuel, Gaël and Roman. Life will show their weight.
Do you plan to write a memoir? A book?
A.G. I have made for years research on wine and Christianity for lectures; but my decision is not to write anything.
My next lecture will be at the Political Science School in Paris called Sciences PO.
What will be your lasting contribution to the wine world?
A.G. The Gassac vineyard is more a poem to the Mediterranean world; what is the influence of poetry?
What should my American readers finally understand about Le Domaine de Daumas Gassac?
A.G. We have a few hundred nice American citizens visiting every year. They all share emotion and love for this valley, first planted as a vineyard by Saint Benoit II, minister of Charlemagne. There are still quite a few European valleys not destroyed by chemicals and religion of money and volume. To visit them is a good project.
Thank you, Monsieur Guibert. It has been an honor.
Viva la France!
Admin
