A Case of Familiar Faces
Ξ August 9th, 2008 | → 0 Comments | ∇ Uncategorized |
The more you delve into the world of wine the more some names just keep appearing. These are the “Big Guns” of the field; the author of a review, an interesting article in your favourite magazine or wine blog, providing a sound-bite from an event or conference and, most frequently, giving their opinions (and scores) on a bottle or a winemaker.
Since I started getting serious about wine about 3 years ago there are some people who, one way or another, have influenced the way I look at wine and it’s entourage of creators, critics and consumers. I quickly jotted down a Top 10, however I realized I’d fallen into the trap of hype – I’d included too many critics whose names I see every day on wine scores but realized I knew nothing about them, which wasn’t what I really meant by names that have influenced me. So I tried again, thinking about people I’ve seen on television, read in the reference books and magazines I occasionally buy and, crucially, those who stand out on the current battlefield of the wine world, the Internet. The new list came to 12 and includes many who will be instantly familiar to every wine enthusiast, a couple that confirm how British I am, but also contains some that only the Internet generation will recognize.
While I knew a little about each of them I realized that it was mostly what their publicists want you to read or what the media has decided makes a good story, usually the two extremes of what someone is really like. For this article I wanted to add a personal touch so, in a haze of reckless enthusiasm, I found the most promising contact address for them all (some were easier than others) and sent off some questions in the hope of a reply which may offer some additional insight into the person behind the reputation. While I wasn’t expecting everyone to reply (I had doubts that some would even receive my mails) I was surprised by the immediate replies I got from some, and by the time I had to submit this piece there were 8 positive responses and only one who specifically declined to answer.
These are the questions I sent off;
- If you hadn’t gotten involved in wine what do you think you would be doing now?
- What was the last wine you drank at home for pleasure?
- What advice would you give anyone trying to get into wine writing?
- Do you think there are any big surprises due in the next few years which will affect how people make, buy or drink wine?
And here, in the order they responded, are my “Winemaker’s Dozen” with their profiles and (if received) answers.
Alder Yarrow. Born in Northern California in the early ‘70s and raised in Aspen, Colorado, Alder studied Film & Fine Art at Stanford University and is founder and principal of the design and consulting firm HYDRANT. He lives in San Francisco with his wife and daughter.
In January 2004 Alder started Vinography, one of the earlier popular Wine Blogs. In the intervening years the site has become one of the “elder statesmen” of the wine blogging world, espousing impartiality.
It reports monthly hits of over 75,000 from 132 countries and I have visited the site many times over the last few years for a mix of new stories, reviews, interesting facts, and individual opinions (not always agreed with!).
…what do you think you would be doing now? Getting a lot more sleep and reading a lot more books.
…last wine drank for pleasure? 1998 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany, Italy
…advice for budding wine writers? If you want to write, then write, which means doing it every day, even if you just throw away the result. Experts say you need to spend about 10,000 hours practicing before you master something. How many hours are you spending with a pen and paper or in front of your computer? Blogs are great vehicles for practice writing.
…big surprises in the next few years? Well, if I had a strong hunch about something really big, I’d go out and buy stock in the idea and not tell anyone else about it! The only thing that occurs to me is that globally wine consumption is going to accelerate. Which means there’s going to be a higher demand for the stuff, which is good for all of us who have a stake (emotional or otherwise) in the business.
Jancis Robinson MW. Born in Carlisle, England in 1950 Jancis took Mathematics & Philosophy at Oxford University before being appointed as assistant editor of Wine & Spirit magazine in 1975. She passed her Master of Wine exam in 1984 and is editor of the Oxford Companion to Wine and, with Hugh Johnson, The World Atlas of Wine. Jancis is married to the food writer Nick Lander and they have three children.
A prolific wine journalist, writer and critic her thoughts and opinions can be found on her Purple Pages website JancisRobinson.com, its subscription section described by the L.A. Times as “the site worth paying for…”.
I have been known to check out the free section of the site and take some pride knowing we are both originally from Carlisle. There is an interesting (if sometimes static) recording of Jancis at the Shanghai International Literary Festival.
…. what do you think you would be doing now? Something to do with food or writing or both.
…. last wine drank for pleasure? Last night, Château Prieuré Borde-Rouge, Ange 2004 Corbieres here in the Languedoc – and very delicious it was too!
…. advice for budding wine writers? Always keep learning; never think you know it all.
…. big surprises in the next few years? If I knew, it would not be a surprise!
Hugh Johnson OBE. Born in 1939 (otherwise not a very good year!) Hugh has been writing since 1960 and studied English literature at Cambridge University, then becoming features editor for Vogue and House & Garden magazines. Married in 1965 he has 3 children and is a keen gardener (he has also written gardening books).
He wrote the first World Atlas of Wine in 1971 and saw it through 4 editions before teaming up with Jancis Robinson in 2001 for the 5th Edition (and again for the 6th published last year).
A prolific producer of wine books the last was “Wine, a life Uncorked” in 2005 in which he criticized Robert M. Parker, Jr. as a “dictator of taste”. Hugh Johnson’s writing can currently be found on the Sunday Times Wine Club (of which he is President) Blog and he is part of the editorial team of The World of Fine Wine magazine, whose editorial and contributor list sounds like a Who’s Who of the wine world!
Unfortunately Hugh was on vacation when I was writing the article; my thanks go to Dr Neil Beckett of “The World of Fine Wine” for relaying my message to him and his well wishes.
Oz Clarke. Born 1949 and attended Oxford University where he co-founded his College Wine-tasting team. Oz followed an acting career on stage and film until 1984 when he turned solely to wine writing. He is known for his excellent tasting ability.
On first becoming serious about wine it was Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Book (2006) which gave me a start in learning more about wine but for many, including myself, it was his regular appearances on BBC2s Food & Drink programme in the 80’s and 90’s which have ensured his popularity in the U.K.
More recently he has teamed up with motoring journalist James May for Oz and James Wine Adventures on the BBC, series 1 covering France, series 2 on California. I suspect series 3 is in the offing – Oz was not able to respond to my questions as he was “away filming for BBC TV until early September” according to Fiona Holman of Pavilion Wine.
Tom Wark started in Public Relations and Media Communications in 1990 with Gracelyn Associates, then formed LeftBank Communications in 1994 before joining Winebid.com in 1999. In 2001 he opened the wine industry PR firm Wark Communications where he is currently partner.
All of this insider knowledge served him well when he started the wine industry blog Fermentation in November 2004 – a cynical, hard hitting, no holds barred view of the wine industry and its associated hangers-on.
While you may not always agree with Tom his views are worth hearing, and more often than not he cuts through the glitz and finds real stories. In 2007 Fermentation launched the American Wine Blog Awards, now in its second year – recognition for the blog phenomenon that looks to get stronger in the future.
…. what do you think you would be doing now? I’d likely be in Academia, most likely at the college level. I almost went that route to begin with.
…. last wine drank for pleasure? 2004 Mayo Family Reserve Zinfandel, Russian River Valley (Ricci Vineyard).
…. advice for budding wine writers? Determine the type of audience for whom you want to write, then determine if this audience exists, then determine if they are accessible, then determine if they care what you have to say about wine.
…. big surprises in the next few years? There are always new ways to market wine coming down the pike that we aren’t currently thinking of. That’s where the change and surprises will occur. Personally, I’m waiting for aroma to be able to cheaply be transmitted via e-mail.
Gary Vaynerchuk. Born in Babruysk, Belarus, in 1975 the family moved to the U.S. in 1978, with his father Alexander (Sasha) eventually setting up “Shoppers Discount Liquor” in Springfield, New Jersey, in 1983. Gary developed an obsession with the wine business while still a teenager and after attending Mount Ida College in Boston, where he was a self-confessed (poor – expletive deleted!) student, he returned to engineer the re-brand of the business into the Wine Library in 1998 where he is currently co-owner and Director of Operations. He is married to Liz and lives in Manhattan.
Vaynerchuk started Wine Library TV in February 2006, a daily wine tasting Video Blog in his inimitable style (zany, hyperactive and infectious, apart from the really early episodes!). GV, as he is known, has a loyal internet following and has a keen eye for self-marketing, with appearances on the Conan O’Brien show, Ellen and multiple other print and electronic media.
I stumbled upon Wine Library TV a year and a half ago researching Chateau Musar and was instantly hooked. I have to declare non-impartiality when it comes to Vaynerchuk, as I participate on a weekly (sometimes daily) basis on the WLTV Internet Forum and avidly watch his shows, but I feel that he has successfully managed to keep his wine critic integrity and persona separate from the Wine Library retail business as much as possible. If one phrase could sum up Gary it would be “Expand your palate and try different things”, something I firmly believe in.
…. what do you think you would be doing now? Selling baseball cards!
…. last wine drank for pleasure? 2001 Chateau Lascombes (Margaux), this is a solid Bordeaux.
…. advice for budding wine writers? Write from the heart!
…. big surprises in the next few years? The INTERNET!
Bartholomew Broadbent. A child of the (early) 60’s Bartholomew had a head-start in wine as the son of Michael Broadbent (see below), with whom he took an apprenticeship. He learned winemaking in Australia when 19 before returning to Europe, then Canada, before finally settling in San Francisco to set up Premium Port Wines for Symington. Married with twins Bartholomew founded Broadbent selections in 1996 and is regarded as one of the world authorities on Port and Madeira with a family brand, Broadbent Port. He owns 50% of China Fine Wines and the Dragon’s Hollow brand, featured in the latest Wine & Spirits magazine.
Broadbent Selections has an eclectic range of fine wines from around the world, including one of my favourites, Chateau Musar from the Lebanon. Bartholomew is happy to be quoted on this polarizing wine “….ever since 1979 I’ve always said that my favorite wine is Ch. Musar. It is a conversation opener, whereas, if you say something predictable like Ch. Lafite, that is more or less the end of the conversation!” He can be seen tasting Musar and more on the video show IntoWineTV.
…. what do you think you would be doing now? Hugh Grant’s job!
…. last wine drank for pleasure? Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (drinks beautifully now), 2003 Quinta do Crasto Douro Red, 1999 Chateau Musar red, Barboursville 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
…. advice for budding wine writers? Don’t write a book unless you’ve got something original to say. Be careful writing on the web, it often comes across as the closest thing to road rage. Don’t expect to earn a good living from wine writing. Get your facts right, be respectful. It is easier to criticize than to praise. Don’t take yourself or wine too seriously – it’s just a drink.
…. big surprises in the next few years? In the way that Riesling slowly became popular again, now demand outnumbers supply, so will the demand for lower alcohol. The movement is gaining momentum, following the Riesling pattern, and, within seven years, most self-respecting winemakers will be aiming for below 14% alcohol in their wine.
Michael Broadbent MW. Born in Yorkshire, England in 1926 Michael Broadbent is a legendary wine taster, critic and authority on old wines. Trained in architecture he entered the wine business in 1952 and became a Master of Wine in 1960. Most famous for his tenure at Christies in London between 1966 and 1992, where he restarted the Fine Wine auctions, he chaired the “Jefferson Bottles” auction in 1985.
President of the International Wine and Food Society since 1986 he is also an honorary member of the Académie du Vin de Bordeaux and has written numerous wine books. He has a son (Bartholomew, see above) and daughter and served as judge on the 30th anniversary “Judgement of Paris” re-tasting. Michael Broadbent’s writings have been some of my favourites in Decanter Magazine, even though I have little expectation of ever trying some of the marvelous wines he discusses!
…. what do you think you would be doing now? Architect – which is what I studied before moving into wine.
…. last wine drank for pleasure? Seriously, Broadbent Madeira.
…. advice for budding wine writers? Don’t. Too many youngish people who attend tastings and write detailed notes think they are qualified to write about wine. Writing is an art, and one has to earn credibility.
…. big surprises in the next few years? I have studied my silver balls but they are hazy through overuse. The major phases – over-extracted wines, too much oak (or oak chips), full, fleshy alcohol – are, I hope nearing an end. More serious wine drinkers are opting for elegance and moderate alcohol.
Robert M. Parker, Jr. Born in Baltimore, U.S.A. in 1947 Parker studied History & Art History, then Law, at the University of Maryland and was an Attorney until 1984. He started writing wine guides in 1975 and published the first “Wine Advocate” in 1979. He is probably the biggest name in the North American wine world and popularized the 100 point system to great effect, striking a chord with the American love affair of points and scores, and now obtaining a Parker “90” can make or break a wine’s sales, and price in and out of the U.S.
&nbsb;
In Europe, although recognized by the wineries as enormously influential, Parker is less well known by the average wine drinker, although many will enjoy the style he is associated with – fruit forward and oaked. The subscription site Robert Parker online” (affectionately known as eBob) is the Internet presence of Wine Advocate.
I received a polite, if negative, reply from Annette Piatek of the Wine Advocate on my hope of getting some answers to my questions. “Sorry, but Mr. Parker isn’t available to answer any of your questions. Good luck with your article.”
So onto the next name…
Michel Rolland. Born in Libourne, France, in 1947 and raised on the family estate, Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol. Completed his studies at the Bordeaux Oenology Institute where he met his wife Dany. In 1973 they became partners in an oenology laboratory in his home town, becoming full owners in 1976. He and Dany have two daughters, Marie and Stéphanie and the family now own several Bordeaux properties under the Rolland Collection, as well as ventures in South Africa, Spain and Argentina.
Rolland is probably most famous as the “flying winemaker”, travelling extensively around the world as a winery consultant. He featured heavily in the 2004 Docu-film Mondovino which some see as confirming his reputation for helping create a standardized, concentrated fruit and oak style, however later interviews suggest his use of techniques such as micro-oxygenation was over emphasised in the film. I have neither tried enough of the wines he’s been involved in, nor had sufficient direct or indirect association with M. Rolland to provide an opinion on the opions, however it is clear he is dedicated in what he does, and somewhat successful!
…. what do you think you would be doing now? I would have liked to be a surgeon.
…. last wine drank for pleasure? It was Le Bon Pasteur 2000 (Pomerol) – fantastic.
…. advice for budding wine writers? Be simple, honest and work a lot.
…. big surprises in the next few years? Fortunately, there aren’t lots of surprises in a short period. Market is developing; nowadays Asia is the market of the future (along) with the United States, Brazil. There will be new approaches in all sectors but I don’t believe a revolution.
Steven Spurrier. Born in Derbyshire, England, in 1944 Steven became involved in wine in his 20s, first with an established London Wine Merchant, then moving to Paris in 1970 to buy a small specialist shop, Les Caves de la Madeleine. In 1973 he started the first French private wine school, L’Academie du Vin before his most famous exploit – organizing the famous “Judgment of Paris” tasting between Californian and French winemakers.
Spurrier returned to the U.K. in 1988 as a wine writer, journalist and consultant. He is President of the Circle of Wine Writers and consultant editor to Decanter magazine. He is married to Bella, has two children and owns a farm in Dorset.
With the movie Bottle Shock hitting theatre screens at the moment I was tempted to post a picture of Alan Rickman next to this profile, but resisted that moment of tomfoolery as I wouldn’t want to mislead those trusting readers who believe everything they see in print!
Steven was in Tuscany when he responded to my questions through his iPhone, as his laptop had broken down. This by necessity kept his answers brief, and as he was on holiday ”prefers drinking to thinking”, something which I will be putting in practice myself next week!
…. what do you think you would be doing now? I would have joined Christies on the arts side.
…. last wine drank for pleasure? Tignanello 1999.
…. advice for budding wine writers? Try to specialize and keep an open mind.
…. big surprises in the next few years? More and more interest in healthy wines and away from souped-up brands – but the wine Press has to get behind these, as does Jancis in the FT.
Dr. Jamie Goode. Like myself Jamie comes from a science background, receiving his PhD in Plant Biology from the University of London in 1992. He spent years as a science editor before moving into wine, setting up his Wine Anorak site and in 2001, one of the earliest to be found, and still one of the most popular. He has won several writing awards, is a regular contributor to newspaper and magazines and supports Manchester City Football Club, which in my book makes him a true-blue Mancunian! He is married to Fiona and has two boys.
Jamie’s scientific experience can be found in the science columns of Wine Business International, and his blog has a relaxed, informal mix of wine and home life, which is refreshing – but unfortunately I could not get through to him in time for this article; he has just returned from the International Pinot Noir Celebration in Oregon and is no doubt trying to catch up on a backlog of contacts before he very soon departs on a family holiday in Majorica, Spain.
So there we have it, hopefully an accurate review of some of the people who, past, present and future, have made and are continuing to make an impact in the way people view and learn about wine.
Thank you and Merci for the kind responses, especially to Bartholomew Broadbent for taking additional time and effort in ensuring I had the best contact details for some on the list.
Greybeard.
