Bearfoot Bistro Again Honored By Wine Spectator
Ξ September 14th, 2008 | → 0 Comments | ∇ Uncategorized |
Yet again, the Bearfoot Bistro in Whistler, B.C., Canada has been awarded Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence. Say what you will about Wine Spectator’s recent embarrassing tempest in a teapot, but with respect to the Bearfoot Bistro they got it right.
I have traveled each of the last four summers with my son, a pro cyclist, and a few of his friends to Whistler, BC for CrankWorx, North America’s premier cycling competition. And every year we have enjoyed one evening at the Bistro. Of course, there are many very good places to eat in Whistler, but for the quality and value of the prix-fixe menu, the sophisticated yet family friendly atmosphere, we find the Bearfoot Bistro impossible to beat. In fact, it is fair to say my charges cut their teeth on fine dining here. As owner André Saint-Jacques told me of the Bistro’s dining philosophy, “Let’s make people happy. Life is too short!” Twenty years as a restaurateur has served him well.
This year was special. My son had finally become old enough to legally drink, not in the US but in Canada where the drinking age is 19. The night before we dined we visited the Bistro. As André had yet to arrive we were given an eye-popping tour of the new wine cellar by the elegant Olivier B. Their holdings are staggering. André was later to explain, “Always we have about 20,000 bottles”. The off-site inventory holds many multiples of that figure! Specializing in life-affirming Champagne, highlights include “110 different labels from the Champagne region [and] 11 Cristal vintages”. (Click the link just above for a fuller list of highlights and trophies.)
The cellar also sports plasma TVs. They will be used for seminars to be held there. My understanding is that private dinners may also be enjoyed in the cellar. Can you imagine the pleasure of watching the 2010 Winter Olympics hosted by Vancouver, from the comfort of a wine cellar?
The first and last thing you need to know about food at the Bistro is the name of its Executive Chef, Melissa Craig. February of this year she won the title of Canada’s Best Chef for 2008. A lovely, very intense young woman, she is all about the work. I found her self-confidence well deserved. How had André discovered her? He told me, “by chance, four years ago; as my previous chef was leaving, he had worked with her and said she would be a great replacement”. Her specialities? “Asian-influenced seafood and wild game”.
The menu we chose from, with slight seasonal changes, may be found here. For starters we shared the Summer Greens, Heirloom Tomatoes, and the King Crab Trio (the most extraordinary flavor of the evening was the coconut chili soup).
Our main courses shared were the Pheasant Loin (outstanding, very delicate), Australian Lamb Loin (brilliantly done, subtle, melted on the tongue), and the Wild Mushroom Risotto (the countryside on a plate). The plated presentation was a cross between Titian and Kandinsky.
The highpoint of the desserts was the Confit Heirloom Tomato Mille-feuille.
The wine list was a bit on the pricey side for us. But that did not stop us from sabering a NV Diebolt-Vallois and, one of my favorites, the NV Pierre Gimonnet with the help of the most charming Benoit N.
We took our time, ate every morsel, enjoyed every drop. Our conversation would turn in relaxed arcs to the coconut chili soup, the glory that is champagne and the merciless downhill race course. We were content, in love with life.
A good evening.
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