A Fjord Fiesta – Wining and dining in Oslo, Norway
Ξ September 28th, 2008 | → 0 Comments | ∇ A Day at a Time, Restaurant Reviews, Tasting Notes, Wine Bars, Wineries |
My recent trip to Oslo for a conference had me staying in a city centre hotel near the National Theatre. We had a chance to dine out twice over the week and the harbour-front location of Aker Brygge, the site of an old shipyard but now a boardwalk and entertainment hotspot, turned out to be the focal point of both evenings.
The first evening took us to the Bord brasserie and bar. This restaurant demonstrates its wine credentials as you walk in and see the large glass-fronted wine storage unit holding a selection of interesting bottles. The wine list was comprehensive but the menu choice for food was a little limited, and tended towards a younger generation of style; however we all managed to find something that appealed.
I selected Chevre Quesadillas to start & a bowl of unpeeled prawns for the main course – a traditional Norwegian dish, and the most rustic thing on the menu.
To accompany the mainly seafood choices we selected the Fred Loimer Käferberg Grüner Veltliner 2004 from Langenlois. This had a deep waxy nose, with a touch of honeysuckle, was dry in the mouth with a little spicy heat at the back of the throat and a dash of petrol as it moved into the mid-palate. The finish was long with the floral, honeysuckle aspect again. At 12.5% abv this was an enjoyable 4 star wine and one of the cheaper offerings on the menu at just over $90.
As for the food, nutty seed-bread was on hand to dip in extra-virgin olive oil and Balsamic vinegar, while the rich, creamy goats cheese Quesadillas were warm and delicious on a bed of rocket salad & a sweet syrup dressing. The prawns came in a massive bowl, in their shell with a baguette and a strong garlic mayonnaise on the side – peeling the shells was fiddly, but well worth it once the succulent flesh was released! We had a pleasant evening at Bord, the food and wine were both good and the prices, extortionate by U.K. standards, were actually in line with what to expect in a country that has such a high cost of living.
It’s not just the high cost of living in this oil-rich nation that explains why prices are so high. Norway has traditionally had a history of high alcohol consumption and was one of a group of European countries that initiated Prohibition in the early 20th Century, starting in 1916-1917 and continuing until 1927; however this was not a complete ban on alcohol, mainly Spirits and Fortified Wines. In 1922 a state monopoly, Vinmonopolet, was created for the distribution and sale of wines (and later spirits) in the country. This continued until 1996 when the monopoly was ended for import and distribution, however Vinmonopolet still controls the retail side of wine in Norway and until recently most purchasing was an “over the counter” affair similar to Pharmacies. All of this means that a beer costs $10 while a bottle of wine is typically double what you’d pay in the likes of the U.K. and U.S. – this is not the place to come for a thirsty tourist on a budget!
The second evening (a Friday) ended at Aker Brygge, but began many miles away at a small Marina to the west of Oslo. Here our Norwegian host, Terje, had driven us to his boat, a small motor-cruiser, and the four of us (with his wife and a friend of mine) cast off and headed back towards the capital. It was a beautiful evening with only a few clouds in the sky and plenty of light as we headed for our first stop, Vollen Flordkro – a restaurant just a few miles further up the coast where we moored and sat at an outside table to enjoy the sunset.
The food on offer sounded simple but delicious. To begin, I had chosen a mixed seafood starter; delicious and creamy Lax (smoked salmon), light and delicate ceviche of prawns and Skagensalat – Crayfish tails in a rich dill mayonnaise. My colleagues had a massive plate of smoked prawns, a wonderful rusty colour with a flavour of smoked mackerel – delicious (and better than the prawns I had at Bord) although the portion was really too big and they couldn’t finish them all. As a main I had a large bowl of mussels in white wine, these really flavoursome mussels, the best I’d had for a long time.
The basic wine list, while not as exclusive as at Bord, provided enough choice for a relaxing and informal evening meal. Terje’s wife was a preferred red drinker so I selected something light and fruity which wouldn’t completely overpower the dishes – the Caldora 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was a popular choice, especially with the smoked prawns whose strong flavour could easily stand up to the red.
After the meal we boarded the boat and continued on our way to Oslo, the sun had set and the sky was darkening fast but that didn’t stop me having a turn at the wheel (and Terje was inside checking the sonar & GPS system to make sure we weren’t in any danger!). We sailed by some beautiful coves and inlets where other craft were moored up , some having meals on their boats, some on the shore with camp-fires and barbecues – I could easily see how living in this area would necessitate getting a boat and taking advantage of the wonderful geography.
It was after 10pm as we sailed into the harbour just by Aker Brygge and jumped off, waving goodbye to Terje and his wife (they had the same journey back now in the dark, they wouldn’t be home before midnight!). For my friend and I there was still time for a “digestif”, so we went to Café Albertine and sat outside on the terrace. A brief look at the drinks menu and I ordered the Williams & Humbert Collection Pedro Ximenez 12 Year Old Sherry, luscious nectar with aromas of candied orange peel and a touch of marzipan on the nose. The liquid had a deep brown swirl and flavours of Muscovado sugar, raisins, orange peel – in fact Christmas cake in a glass! This was a 4 star offering from Jerez and my first PX.
I had an early morning flight and some sore ribs (from trying to lift something far too heavy earlier in the day) so I called it a night and headed back to the hotel. Once again I’d had a good time in Oslo, although once again I was grateful that I was here on an expense account and not spending my own cash. There is definitely an expanding wine culture in this city even with the high prices you have to pay for a good drink (any drink for that matter!), so if you do find yourself in this part of Scandinavia then take a deep breath, open the wallet and enjoy!
Greybeard.
