Eftalya – Views across the Bosphorus
Ξ November 17th, 2008 | → 0 Comments | ∇ A Day at a Time, Restaurant Reviews, Tasting Notes |
Eftalya Arnavutköy (Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad No:32 Arnavutköy – Besiktas / Istanbul)
Eftalya Beylerbeyi (Beylerbeyi Yaliboyu Cad N0:36 Üsküdar / Istanbul)
September to May is the best time to enjoy fresh seafood in Istanbul and sitting almost directly opposite each other across the Bosphorus are a pair of restaurants that showcase the best the sea has to offer. Both are called Eftalya (after a mermaid in an ancient tale) and on my most recent visit to Istanbul I enjoyed meals in each.
On the European side is Eftalya Arnavutköy in the Besiktas area of the city, just north of the main bridge across the continents. Seated at a window table there was a clear view of the the brightly lit bridge, the lights changing between the primary colours at regular intervals. The meal started with a delicious piece of salted tuna, which dissolved in the mouth, and was accompanied by a rich aubergine (egg-plant) puree made with a good dose of garlic.
This was followed by a salmon salad with a Caesar-style dressing, a plate of tender calamari rings, grilled prawns and a selection of pickled vegetables to nibble on – ochre, cucumber and cabbage. The final course was a grilled fish delight with a succulent swordfish steak plus two other types of fish I couldn’t get translations for, but they were superb nonetheless.
The restaurant had a decent selection of local wines on show in a large wooden rack in the entrance hall. To go with our food a light and refreshing local wine was poured – the Sarafin 2007 Sauvignon Blanc from the Aegean and Marmara regions. This showed some classic grassy, pungent flavours and was more New-World in style, but with a mellow buttery aspect to balance its dryness which went well with the fish.
The following evening we made our way to Eftalya Beylerbeyi, on the Anatolian side of the straits. This time I was with a group of more than 60 people and a boat had been laid on to take us over the Bosphorus. The ride itself was enjoyable, sailing under the bridge across one of the busiest shipping channels in the region, however most entertaining was watching the captain try and dock with Eftalya’s private jetty – the strong current kept taking hold and he couldn’t quite get the front of the boat lined up, taking 4 or 5 attempts before finally getting it right, much to the amusement of the other restaurant guests watching through the windows!
The starter this time was based on Mackerel but equally delicious and with the same Aubergine puree, although more smokey and with less garlic. We were all seated over 5 large tables and the large group meant conversation was varied and constant, so my note taking was limited, but the food kept coming at regular intervals; small fried fish, fish cakes with Indian spices, flame-grilled squid and assorted vegetables and salads.
The main dish was a large grilled fillet of a delicate white-fleshed fish (again unidentifed, but superb!) with similar garnishing to the previous night.
Wine was a mixture of red and white Turkish labels including Sarafin and Kavaklidere – all uncomplicated and easy-drinking to go with the informal atmosphere. Considering the number of people the service was very efficient and the food was every bit as good, if not better, than the previous night.
Both versions of Eftalya are well worth trying if you enjoy seafood and, if you get a good seat near the windows, you’ll have a stunning inter-continental view across the Bosphorus to add an etxra touch to the evening.
Greybeard.
