Domaine Atlas, Tunisia
Ξ February 4th, 2009 | → 0 Comments | ∇ A Day at a Time, International Terroirs, Interviews, Wine History, Wineries |
It is a bit odd to speak to a German gentleman intimately involved in the fortunes of a winery in Tunisia. But perhaps no stranger than a West Coast blogger who, out of an abundance of curiosity, attempts to understand a country and its wines with which he has zero familiarity. So it goes.
Actually, and more reasonably, it is my ongoing fascination with a book which is to blame: Africa Uncorked Travels in Extreme Wine Territory by John and Erica Platter. It has become a magnificent historical document since its publication in 2002, so rapidly have events overtaken the text. But it is not irrelevant. Far from it. The chapter on Zimbabwe is especially prescient. In a curious way the date of publication could not have been more perfect. In fact, 9/11 emphatically bracketed the book, froze its contents. Travels in Extreme Wine Territory, by virtue of the courage of its authors, their fidelity to real work on the ground, preserves a world not unlike that of a pre-WWII Baedeker’s Guide to the cities of Great Britain.
The Platter’s coverage of Tunisia includes the following remarks:
“Over and over again we were told by Tunisians that it was ‘the emancipation of women’ which distinguished their country from the neighbors and made it ‘more progressive’. Mini-skirts on the streets, bikinis on the beaches, these were common, but not the point: it was Tunisian women’s professional, economic, and political clout that made the difference.”
“We wouldn’t have to tiptoe delicately around the subject of wine, to avoid either colonial or religious sensitivities, certainly not. We would see- and did, at wine industry headquarters in Tunis- a famous photograph of [former] President Bourguiba, pointedly planting a vine. We would see that Tunisia was the most secular state in North Africa, and that wine had been completely outed. It was a proud national tradition, widely and openly drunk ‘as in any other Mediterranean country’ (and starting long before Italy or France).”
Contrast these observations with this from the current Tunisia country profile page on the BBC website:
Political violence is rare, but militant Islamists have become an issue of concern for the authorities. A bomb attack on the resort of Djerba in 2002 killed 19 people and led to a dramatic drop in tourist numbers. A dozen suspected Islamists were killed in shoot-outs with security forces in and around Tunis at the end of 2006 and the beginning of 2007. And lawyers say hundreds of people have been arrested on suspicion of links with terrorist groups since 2003, when the authorities gained new powers of arrest.
And this from Amnesty International.
In any event, the following interview with Wolfgang Jiresch, Export Manager of Domaine Atlas, though it is brief and suffers conceptual tensions, is helpful in understanding a successful winery going about its peaceful business in defiance of troubled times.
Admin What are the A.O.C.s of Tunisia? And how have their boundaries been determined?
Wolfgang Jiresch The AOC is an area between Mornag and Sousse. To be AOC, we have to respect some points fixed by the National Wine Office in Tunisia.
What are the terroir distinctions between an A.O.C and an A.O.C. 1er Cru in Tunisia?
WJ Only Mornag AOC has no right for the 1er cru in Tunisia. The others can have the appellation 1er cru, it’s a question of micro-climate.
How many wineries are there in Tunisia? Are there new wineries in development?
WJ There are 15 wineries in Tunisia, three of them are in development.
Where do the grape vine stocks come from? Are they imported from Europe?
WJ Yes, there are imported from France
Domaine Atlas is located in the Mornag A.O.C. When did you begin making wine?
WJ Yes, we began in 2004.
Are all your wines 100% estate grown?
WJ Yes.
How much water does wine growing require? Is wine growing in Tunisia limited by water demands?
WJ In fact we have a rain fall average of 450 mm/year. There is no limit for water using.
What percentage of your wine production is sold in Tunisia and what in Europe? Do you market your wines in North America?
WJ We are selling 30 % of our wines for export market and 70 % for local market; we are working with SAQ in Canada.
Who is your winemaker? Where did your winemaker receive their training?
WJ Our winemaker is a Tunisian, he was many times in Bordeaux for training.
Why are there so many Europeans working in the Tunisian wine industry?
WJ To promote and to change the know-how.
Is there an active wine drinking culture in Tunisia? Are there critics or publications dedicated to wine?
WJ Culture is starting.
Does Tunisia have a bottle making industry? Do you source all of your packaging materials from there?
WJ Yes, we have one “monopole” firm which is SOTUVER, but we Import coloured bottles too from Europe.
Do your wines receive critical review in Europe?
WJ We because we won 17 distinctions these last two years.
Are there any religious obstacles to making wine in North Africa?
WJ No.
What are the most important ideas the American public should understand about your wine and the wines of Tunisia?
WJ We are very close to organic wine and our wines are very rich in polyphénols.
END
I thank Wolfgang Jiresch for his willingness to write and Domaine Atlas for their gracious participation.
A final note: Africa Uncorked is a must read. It belongs on the book shelf, well read, of every wine enthusiast, of everyone interested in the culture of wine.
Admin
