The Castell del Mirall vineyards are located in the Penedès Denominació d’Origen (DO) of Catalunya, not far from the capital of the magnificent, most European of cities, Barcelona. I am interested in this winery for a few reasons: they use Braille labels, something I was to learn from David Assens, Export Manager from Castell, when he wrote a comment on my post about the subject. And earlier this Spring I was to learn of a water crisis in Barcelona. The city has begun to import water, 5 million gallons from nearby Tarragona has just arrived, later this week more will be shipped from Marseille. A fuller account may be found from Sky News. Hence a question arises as to the impact of the drought on the wine industry in nearby Penedès DO. Lluís Ferré, 2nd generation winegrower at Castell del Mirall, kindly agreed to discuss these matters, and more. David Assens translated from English to Catalan and back again. My great thanks to him for his assistance.
Admin I was originally drawn to Castell Del Mirall because yours is one of the few wineries in the world who add Braille to your wine labels. What was your motivation?
Lluís Ferré Our motivation was to be able to propose our wines to broader audience and not to forget people with this disability.
Are your Braille labels in Catalan? Do you relabel for the export market?
LF We do relabel in English. The Braille code only indicates the name of the wine and the vintage.
What has been the Spanish wine industry’s reaction to your Braille initiative?
LF People thought it was a pretty good idea; some winemakers said they will follow.
Barcelona is currently in the grip of a very serious drought. What has been the impact of the drought throughout Catalunya, especially among the local wineries?
LF We may lose 20% in terms of yields, TBD.
If the drought continues for another few years how will Castell Del Mirall respond? And the other wineries in Catalunya?
LF I think people will increase ploughing and use more cover crops in the vineyards and control even more the canopy. Of course they could choose more drought resistant varietals (Spanish), and also plant at higher elevation.
Do you believe the drought is a consequence of Global Warming? If so what are the long term consequences for Catalunya wineries and vineyards? How is the wine industry in Catalunya preparing?
LF Yes it is. We may have a drastic increase of sugar and higher pH in the future, which could lead to less ageing potential for the wines. Once again, more and more vineyards are now planted at 1500-2000 ft.
Here in Cailfornia Napa winegrowers have awakened to climate change. Do you have any advice for them?
LF Try to not force the nature: I mean they should plant varietals and rootstocks that really fit their terroir and climate.
Tell us, if you will, about the terroir of your vineyards. Where are they located? At what elevations?
LF Our vineyards are located in the Penedès region very close to Barcelona.
In Castellet i la Gornal (Baix Penedes) at 400ft, is located the “ Corral d’en Refeques” vineyard. It is the largest in size, with a total of 25.66 Hectares (55 acres), dedicated to the following grape varieties:
Cabernet Sauvignon: 19.17 Ha
Chardonnay: 4.57 Ha
Tempranillo: 2.64 Ha
Xarel.lo: 4.58 Ha
Syrah: 1.98 Ha
Merlot: 2.72 Ha
The “La Granada” vineyard, close to our village where the winery is spreads on 2.61 Ha property, at 500 ft, that includes:
Chenin Blanc: 2.08 ha
Garnatxa Negra: 0.53 ha
In the village of Guardiola de font-Rubi at 1200ft ( Alt Penedès) is located the “Cal Escudé” vineyard on 17.08 Ha (37 acres), planted to the following grape varieties:
Macabeo: 3,85 Ha
Merlot. 3.36 Ha
Syrah :3.68 Ha
Sauvignon Blanc: 1,62 Ha
Muscat d’Alexandria: 1,90 Ha
Parellada: 2,67 Ha
Our soils are composed of clays, limestone and granite. The average yield for dry wines is 3 tons/acre and 6 for Sparkling.
Castell Del Mirall produces quite a few wines! Could you tell us something of the grape varieties you grow?
LF As you can see, we grow Spanish, Catalonian and French varieties. We use the three Spanish and Catalonian varietals which are Xarel·lo, Macabeu and Parellada for our Cava Sparkling wines which are bottle fermented, (like in Champagne).
Beside this you see we mainly use Cabernet, Tempranillo, Merlot for our barrel aged wines and young wines.The Syrah usually goes into our entry level red and rosé. The Chenin Blanc goes into a white blend, and the Chardonnay is single varietal: and barrel fermented.
What is your case production? And how much is consumed in Spain? And in the balance of Europe? Great Britain?
LF We make 20.000 cases per year, 16.000 are sold in Catalonia (Northern Spain). The 4000 cases remaining are sold in the UK (200 cases), Japan, Germany, Holland, Sweden and the state of Florida in the US.
Who buys your wines? What are your target markets?
LF Our customers are generally in search of premium wines. As a result our wines are sold mainly in wine shop and restaurants and not in supermarkets.
We would love to conquer the US on a larger extend.
What ‘green’, environmentally sensitive practices does Castell Del Mirall have in place, or will begin in the future?
LF Basically, we never used herbicides in the vineyards and we spray very little. We are thinking of recuperating rain water and treat it for use in the cellar in the future.
Why can’t I find your wines in the United States?
LF Our importer in Florida is very small. Also, the sub prime crisis and the exchange rate €/$ slows down our expansion in the US for the moment.
What did you think of the film Mondovino?
LF In some ways, it is a caricature. But it is also true that influential wine critics (like Bob) can standardize the taste of fine wine.
What websites would you recommend for the American interested in Spanish wines?
LF We like this one: www.winesfromspain.com/
Thank you for your time, Lluís.
Admin
Reign of Terroir is pleased to participate in our first ever Wine Blogging Wednesday. For a brief explanation of its origins visit this link. This month’s topic, selected by Gary Vaynerchuk of WLTV, is French Cabernet Franc wines.
Our first entry is written by Greybeard, followed by yours truly, the Admin; Donna has written an excellent ’stand alone’ piece on how wine professionals conduct a blind tasting. Her effort deserves to be posted by itself. I will do so later today. Admin
Greybeard writes: It’s good to know Gary Vaynerchuk and I have at least one thing in common, we both have a special affinity for single varietal Cabernet Franc. So when he announced that WBW 44 was on the French version of this grape I was more than happy to break open a bottle and participate on behalf of Reign of Terroir.
For me this stems back to our family vacation in the Loire Valley in 2006 (my first trip to a wine region) where we rented an old farmhouse building in the village of Fougerolles, just outside the town of Bourgueil. We have wonderful memories of touring the region - Tours, Chinon, Saumur 
, Vouvray and several Chateaux in the area - plus sampling a fair amount of the local wines! I quickly became a fan of the reds made exclusively from Cabernet Franc (the grape is known locally as Breton). While the Loire in general may be better known for its white and rosé wines the basic Breton reds have a rustic charm and improve into serious quality wines as you move up the scale to the better offerings from Saumur-Champigny, Bourgueil, the smaller neighbouring appellation of St. Nicholas de Bourgueil and finally to Chinon, the leader of Loire Cabernet Francs 
and historic fortress city at the heart of English-French politics & war for more than 300 years.
It was one of the bottles I brought back from this trip, the Marchesseau Fils 2003 Bourgueil, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes which was sacrificed in the name of Wine Blogging. This was purchased from the Maison du Vin in Bourgueil for the princely sum of £5 ($10 now, at the time closer to $8) and was due for drinking this year or next.
On the nose this has a strong raspberry reduction aroma and a rich oaky vanilla in the background with a subtle touch of menthol. The colour is deep and dark, promising something heavy, but surprisingly it is a little light in the mouth with firm tannins at the front and a smooth texture on the mid-palate quickly moving into a medium finish. This is a nicely balanced wine which I opened with friends and happily finished off myself to complete this article, 88pts.
Looking back through my tasting notes for other Loire Cab-Francs I came across 2 reds, from Saumur-Champigny and Chinon, and 2 Bourgueil rosés (rarities, as rosé accounts for less than 4% of production in Bourgueil) – all from the same summer 2006 vacation.
1) Daheuiller Domaine des Varinelles 2003 Vieilles Vignes, AOC Saumur Champigny – “rasperry jam nose with a smooth, balanced mouthfeel - not tannic. Slightly burnt flavour (good) and refreshing. 90pts.”
2) Domaine René Couly 2004, AOC Chinon – “rich and mellow nose, some light fruit. Very smooth tannins, almost silky/velvety. 90pts”
3) J.M Rouzier, “Les Géléries” 2005, AOC Bourgueil – “refreshing, fruity nose. Sour cherry Marzipan taste. 88pts”
4) Jacky Girard 2005, AOC Bourgueil – “ dry Rose, not much on fruit but very refreshing. 84pts”
While maybe not as beefy as Bordeaux, or as elegant as Burgundy, French Cabernet Franc from the Val de Loire can be a delight, and a bargain at the same time, and I’m glad I still have a few bottles left to come back to over the next couple of years. These reds are not too common in the stores around the UK, although Waitrose has a few to choose from, and I’d heartily recommend giving them a try if you haven’t experienced this region before.
Admin writes: My selection hails from Saumur Champigny AOC, the 2003 Clos Rougeard. The owners, the Foucault brothers, Nadi and Charles, have long been organic producers, though my understanding is that they have recently been Biodynamic certified or are in transition. (Beaune Imports has posted a fine gloss on their efforts written by Clive Coates.) Nadi and Charles produce three Cab Franc cuvées, Saumur Champigny, approx. 1500 cases; “Les Poyeux”, around 900 cases (Fork & Bottle has a nice review of the 2000); and “Le Bourg”, 300 cases. Full details may be found here. Finally, Andrew Jefford writes in his excellent The New France, “All are produced with very low yields, wild yeasts, long and soft macerations, oak-ageing (with a proportion of new oak), and bottled without filtration; they age as well as any”.
The cork broke as I pulled it out, but the wine was fine. Let it breath for a few hours as their wines are known to tight when so young. Tar and licorice on the nose; tons of raspberry jam, reduced dark cherries, and freshly sharpened pencil wood and lead; alc stated to be 12.5% but it feels hotter in the nose; very heady. The wine is easy to see through; very interesting hint of dark brick. On the palate, beautiful, bright fruit, with bitter chocolate sans sugar on the mid-palate to finish. Vegetal, bell pepper or jalapeño (?) Maybe green apple skin. Tannins softer than I expected (even though I opened this beauty far too soon), acid a bit strong. No oak to speak of on the palate but detectable on the nose. I can sense why this is their ‘entry level’ cuvée: just enough complexity to ’set the hook’ for the their more expensive bottlings! All in all, a bar-raising Cab Franc. Delightful.
On the West Coast bottles may be found as of this writing at The Wine House and The Wine Country. Price: $36-$40.
Donna’s contributions to follow.
So, I’m in Turkey again (and not for the first time) but as with other trips recently I’m now thinking of wine as a background to the business that’s paid for my ticket. The country is a series of contradictions - nominally Muslim, and with a pro-Islamic government (although not in the same league as Iran or Saudi Arabia) it is actually one of the most secular, open societies I’ve been to outside of Western Europe. Alcohol is widely enjoyed and the Turks are rediscovering a long tradition of winemaking spanning several civilizations, including the Hittites, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. However out of more than 1.5 million acres of plantings only about 2% of the fruit is turned into wine, with the bulk going for table grapes and raisins.
Istanbul itself is a typical modern city, the business hub of the dynamic Western half of the country while Ankara, the capital city and seat of government, is less vibrant, but still open and busy. In both cities, more so in Istanbul, Islamic strictures are frowned upon by the populace. This is an effect of the Atatürk republic, set up in response to the stagnation of the Ottomans and the disaster that was WWI - to set the country on a road of modernisation and to separate Mosque and State ( there were demonstrations recently when the Government repealed a law banning headscarves for female students, many Turks worry it is the start of a slide towards Islamic fundamentalism ).
As befits an area with ancient ties to wine there are a host of indigenous grapes for Turkish Winemakers to choose from, estimated between 900 and 1,250 varieties. The excellent Vinotolia site covers the main ones - from my experience I’d say look for the red Öküzgözü, Bo?azkere or Kalecik Karasi, while for white try a dry Narince or Emir.
The country has 7 main wine regions.
Thrace and Marmara - including European Turkey and the Sea of Marmara area, centred on Istanbul. This is the key winemaking area to date.
Aegean - South West around Izmir and including the Turkish Riviera (the coastline which is a favourite for holidaymakers).
Black Sea - the northern coastline stretching east to Georgia.
Central Anatolia - the Anatolian plateau, Ankara and areas east, including Cappadocia, which can date winemaking back to early Christian times.
South-Eastern Anatolia - the landlocked southern area bordering Syria.
East Anatolia - Eastern Turkey up to the borders with Armenia, Iran and Iraq, including the Elazig area.
Mediterranean - southern coastline to the border with Syria.
Mustafa Kemal Pasha (Atatürk) founded the modern Turkish state in 1923 and less than 2 years later founded his own personal wine cellar which he continued to stock, and drink, until his death in 1938. The Kavaklidere winery was established near Ankara in 1929 with Atatürk’s support and is one of the more famous of the modern wineries, with Diren, Kayra, Pamukkale and Villa Doluca (DLC) amongst many others, although nowadays even small local farmers are seeing the financial benefits of planting vineyards.
One problem for the wine lover in Turkey is the cost. Since the conservative AKP government came to power in 2002 taxes on alcohol have soared, which is hurting consumers and producers alike 2. This means that Turkish drinkers pay up to 3 times the price for a bottle compared to an equivalent quality bottle bought in America or Europe. The 3 bottles I came back with this trip came to more than £30 ($60) which, for typical local wine bought in the country of origin, is amongst the priciest in all my travels. This cost has led to a black market in wine production, with counterfeit wines becoming a problem, similar to neighbouring Georgia (discussed in an earlier R.O.T. post).
So finally onto the wine itself. My previous experience of a slice of Turkey was 2 years ago with the Anfora Trio 2004 from Pamukkale, a blend of Shiraz, Kalecik Karasi and Cabernet Sauvignon. It was rustic but good and I noted raspberries bursting out of the bottle, with a subtle background of caramel, leather and tobacco.
This time it was Kavaklidere providing the initial experience with a 2000 Öküzgözü from Elazig and their popular white, the 2006 Çankaya 
. I’ll discuss the Öküzgözü in a separate post, but the white is a blend of “four different grapes from Anatolia”. Although they don’t say which grapes are included Narince is likely, as it’s from the region, and Emir is a certainty as the wine has a nice crispness which matches the flavour profile of this grape. It worked well with the spicy flame-grilled chicken wings we had that night (which may not sound particularly Turkish, but apparently so!).
Two additional whites I tried were the DLC 2006 Sultaniye, Emir - which was very aromatic, floral with a fresh acidity, and the Kayra Tilsim 2007 - a Sultaniye, Semillon and Emir blend with a wonderful smell of banana and tropical fruits which was very dry, but let itself down with a wateriness which didn’t match its nose.
As for the 3 bottles that made it safely back to the U.K. with me, the two reds are safely stored away. The Kayra Terra 2005 Öküzgözü looks like it will make a nice weekend red sometime in the next year or so, while the Kavaklidere Selection 2005 Öküzgözü-Bogazkere promises to be something a little more special to be enjoyed in the next 5-6 years. The white was the Diren Dörtnal 2002 
, a 100% Narince that I was a little sceptical on buying, not knowing the grape variety I had worries that a 2002 was past its best. With that in mind I opened it for the Easter weekend and am currently sipping it while finishing off this article. The colour is medium, like a pale honey, and there was an initial hint of rubber on the nose before settling down into a floral perfume. It’s light in the mouth and very dry, not strong on flavour but, for a 6 year old white, still fairly fresh. I’d score it in the 82-83 range which doesn’t justify its £7 ($15) price tag, but it’s a new variety for me, and new experiences are what life is all about.
One final note. Cappadocia is famous not only for its wine but also for its landscape, and both can be viewed on an informative post on the Wine Library TV forums, A Turkish Wine Experience.
Greybeard.
Moshav Agur 17, Judean Hills
In the foothills west of Jerusalem, about half-way to Tel Aviv and a touch south, is Moshav Agur. Moshavim are cooperative communities where, unlike in the collective Kibbutzim, property is privately owned and Agur was originally settled in 1948 by Kurdish Jews fleeing Northern Iraq and Iran.
In 1997 Shuki Yashuv, 
master cabinetmaker and history graduate, left Jerusalem with his wife and 2 daughters for Agur and in 1999 set up his winery, briefly working with Ze’ev Dunie (who then set up Sea Horse Winery in 2000). Since then Shuki has been steadily increasing the wine production, from a modest 1,800 bottles in the first vintage to 14,000 a couple of years ago and increasing. Agur has local vineyards and also in the nearby Ella Valley, where the Biblical story of David and Goliath is believed to have been played out.
When I visited the winery this month it was Shuki’s wife, Evelyn, who met us at the gate because the man himself was giving a presentation to a group of guests elsewhere on the property, I wonder if it was the “Winemaker Dance” I’ve read about? The more I hear about Shuki the more I’d really have loved to have met him, however Evelyn was the perfect hostess and offered tastes of the 2 main labels from the winery, the 2005 Kessem (Magic) and the 2005 Shmira Meyuchedet (Special Reserve).
Kessem may be Hebrew for Magic but it is also a phonetic acronym, CSM, for the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (with a little Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot for good measure). The wine was well balanced with plenty of berry fruit, and nice firm tannins down the sides of the tongue. It was while tasting this that I picked up on a Scottish accent from Evelyn, and we had a brief chat about my early years in Scotland. As we talked she poured a taste of the Special Reserve, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 18 months in new oak barrels. This was a much deeper drink, strong tannins on the top of the tongue which make me think of at least 2 years on this before enjoying to the full, but the abundance of fruit hiding behind the oak should be worth waiting for.
As I only had room for one bottle in my bag this trip it had to be the Special Reserve, but the Kessem is a lovely wine and for early drinking would be the better choice. The Judean Hills has been called by some as Israel’s winemaking frontier and, with over 28 wineries at the start of 2007, a wine route of sorts is developing there. These are mostly boutique style enterprises, many producing non-Kosher wines for the discerning drinker and, more increasingly, the export market. Agur started exports to the U.S. in 2006 and, with wines like the ones I tasted, I hope they will find a following, and also that one day I get to meet Shuki in person.
On a final note, the Agur web-address is www.agurwines.com, but Evelyn said it wasn’t on-line yet but hopes it will be sorted out soon!
Greybeard.
The last time I was in Israel and tried the local stuff was before my wine epiphany and I wasn’t paying any attention to what it was or where it came from, so my recent business trip was a perfect chance to expand my knowledge. My Israeli colleague Yaron knows of my wine obsession and had a present for me - the new Rogov’s Guide to Israeli Wines whose author, Daniel Rogov, is a respected food and wine critic. I enjoyed the historical and background information and now I’m diligently working through the detailed reviews of the various wines and wineries.
There are 5 wine regions with names that should be familiar to most readers; Galilee, Shomron, Samson, Jerusalem Mountains and the Negev. There’s an excellent map (the same as in Rogov’s guide) on the IsraelWines website.
Galilee covers the Northern quarter of the country and includes the disputed Golan Heights - occupied, and then formally annexed, by Israel following the 1967 Six Day war and the 1973 Yom Kippur war.
The Golan Heights Winery, with its Katzrin, Yarden and Gamla ranges, is regularly vaunted as the best wine producer in the country and I’ve enjoyed the excellent Gamla Cabernet-Sauvignon on previous visits.
Moving South is Shomron, the Hebrew name for Samaria, which is the country’s largest growing region and includes the Mount Carmel and Sharon areas.
The Carmel Winery, the largest producer in Israel, was founded as a cooperative by Baron Edmond de Rothschild (of Château Lafite Rothschild) and produces some of its wines out of Zichron Ya’akov while the nearby town of Binyamina, named for the ubiquitous Baron (Edmond Benjamin James), is also the name of Israel’s fourth largest winery.
Samson (Hebrew is Shimshon) covers the remaining Mediterranean coastal area from Tel Aviv down to Gaza and east towards the Jerusalem Mountains but it appears that, as a growing area, it is not overly renowned for the quality of its fruit.
Carmel (above) has its headquarters in Rishon le Zion just south of Tel Aviv, where the first winery was set up by Baron de Rothschild in 1890, and Israel’s second largest producer, Barkan, is based in Kfar Saba.
East of Samson is the Jerusalem Mountains region, also known as the Judean Hills. The wide range of terrain and climates means that this is a popular area for new wineries and has potential for producing superb world-class wine. Rogov writes that “a true route des vins is developing in this area” and I have to agree, as I managed to visit 2 wineries (and a Monastery selling wine from a 3rd) in the short half-day I had free at the end of my trip. I’ll report on these separately but, of other producers in the region, Castel seems to be garnering a reputation for consistent quality.
The final region is the most southerly. The Negev is known by most people as a desert but in high-tech and relatively water-rich Israel advanced irrigation techniques have allowed quality grapes to be grown. Carmel and Barkan have both planted vineyards in the Negev and in the future lessons learned here may allow wineries other hot countries improve and develop.
OK, I imagine a lot of you are thinking – nice information, but what about the wines? Well, I can confirm I did try some while I was there, but most were tastings and I’m going to cover them in other posts.
The remaining 2 were opened at a Kosher Restaurant in Tel-Aviv, and finished off in my hotel room over the following nights.
Binyamina has already been mentioned and we had their Yogev 2005 Cabernet-Sauvignon Merlot. The wine had a delicate nose wish a dash of liquorice and some almost hidden green spiced oak and vanilla. The softness of the nose carried on into the first taste which was well balanced and smooth with mild tannins stroking the sides of the tongue and a warming mid-palate - feminine sprang to mind when first drinking it. Unfortunately the finish was a bit quick and left a little heat at the back of the throat.
Dalton Winery is a smaller producer in Upper Galilee and the Canaan Red, 2006, is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. The addition of the Syrah to the mix, compared to the Yogev, set my expectations that this would be a fuller, spicier wine and the nose continued this expectation - there’s was extra complexity and a touch of white pepper but also a little sweetness suggested. In the mouth again there’s a smooth delicate feel, not that different from the first (feminine still feels right), a little cherry on the front (and a bit of that pepper), less dryness on the sides but a lot more on the top of the palate. The finish is longer, with some sour cherry.
Although neither wine had any complex flavours the fruit is fresh, the texture is very pleasant and the wine screams warm weather, with ripe, sweet grapes. I’d put both in the 85-86 range and was more than happy with both as accompaniment to the meal we had.
Finally it is worth mentioning the differences between the 3 main types of wine producer in Israel at the moment, Commercial, Kibbutzim and Boutique (there is also the religious aspect to the wine; Kosher, non-Kosher and Sacramental/Altar wine, but that deserves a post of its own).
Commercial wineries will be familiar to Western consumers, from the big boys of the industry (Carmel produces over 25 million bottles, has export sales of $5m and dominates with 50% of the domestic market) to the medium and small sized private producer. With few exceptions their wines are Kosher, mainly because they have to be to get on the shelves of most of the Supermarkets where Israelis buy their wine.
Kibbutzim wineries, like the Kibbutz, are something uniquely Israeli. After 1973 the new conservative Likud coalition started to dismantle the socialist infrastructure of the Labour party which had allowed the Kibbutz system to flourish. Exposed to taxation and market pressures many looked to profitable industry as opposed to the basic agriculture of the past, and winemaking was one of these options. Such wineries were set up to make a profit to plough back into the Kibbutz and while some are small or concentrate on religious consistency rather than quality, Ella Valley is one of the more successful examples producing over 150,000 bottles. Unfortunately when I visited it was mid-Friday afternoon and it had already closed for the Sabbath, which is a shame as Rogov is complementary to its wines.
Boutique wineries in Israel are the smaller private producers who make anything from a few thousand to a few tens of thousands of bottles. Without reliance on Supermarkets many produce non-Kosher wines in styles more familiar to European and U.S. consumers as they strive for quality and variety.
For more information check out Israel Wines and Wikipedia.
Greybeard.
A short business trip over to Germany raised the possibility of trying out some of the less obvious local wines, and since German red wine not easily available in the UK, and has such a poor reputation, I decided to look a little closer at what was available in the country itself. I started in Giessen, a University town just north of Frankfurt which is closest to the Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Franken growing regions.
My colleague on this trip was Steffi, who favours dry and full bodied wines, so as we perused the wine list on the first night we were both concentrating on the reds. However the first to attract our attention was a white, the 2005 Silvaner Trocken from Weingut Hauck in Rheinhessen. Coming in at 12.5% abv this was rich and floral, a delicious wine to start the evening and only my second ever Silvaner (in Germany it is written with an ‘i’ unlike Alsace and Austria which use Sylvaner).
The hotel was the Altes Eishaus Weinstube, originally an ice-cream house but now a cosy lodging with a very quaint restaurant called the Pfannkuchenhaus (Pancake house) specialising, unsurprisingly, in savoury pancakes. For a main course I went for the Bauen Pfannkuchen with a smoked ham and onion filling. To accompany this we had the 2006 Portugieser Rotwein Trocken Qba by Weingut Volker Pfaffmann in Pfalz. Despite it’s name Blauer Portugieser is actually an Austrian variety used to make light red wines and this one was very light, but easy to drink with the mildly flavoured food.
In an attempt to add a bit more body to the evening’s drinking we finished with what promised to be a much richer red, a 2005 Spätburgunder, also from Weingut Hauck at 13% abv. Spätburgunder is a clone of Pinot Noir and is grown widely in Germany and Austria (where it is known as Blauburgunder) and is used to make medium bodies reds. Our one was a much deeper colour than the Portugieser and had a smoky nose that promised much, but unfortunately too much, as the flavour lacked depth, was bitter and it finished exceptionally fast. It seems that Herr Hauck is better at whites and at the end of the evening we both agreed that the Silvaner was the best of the selection.
I managed to pay a quick visit to a small convenience store before we had to leave Giessen, but unfortunately the selection was limited and mid-range at best.
A Dornfelder seemed the best option for a red, the Hemer 2005 Dornfelder Trocken from Rheinhessen. The label indicates Gutsabfullung meaning Estate Bottled and matured in Holzfass barrels. This came in at £5 ($10).
Hemer also produced one of the whites I selected, the Primus 06 Rivaner Trocken, also at £5. Rivaner is another name for Müller-Thurgau (a Riesling-Silvaner cross ) - although there are some claims that it is a distinct Riesling clone. In the 1970s more Müller-Thurgau was planted in Germany than anything else, but a bad winter in 1979 devastated crops and it has since suffered a popularity slump after being associated with the cheap and cheerful Liebfraumilch and Piesporter so prevalent in the 80s.
Finally I had to get a Riesling, but with the selection so limited I went for a historic and local reference instead, and chose the Justus von Liebig 2006 Rüdesheimer Riesling from the Rheingau. This is a commemorative bottle celebrating the 200th birthday of famous German chemist Justus von Liebig, after whom the University of Giessen is named and who also founded the company who created OXO! This set me back $11.
While none of these wines are for aging I’m hoping they will at least provide some pleasant drinking within the next year.
The next day saw a long drive up the autobahn to Bremen. Here we were staying in the very elegant Hotel Munte am Stadtwald next to the main city park and woods, close to the University. It was late when we arrived so we only had a light meal and a couple of glasses of wine to wash it down. I was determined to continue on the German red theme and ordered the Grossbottwarer Wunnenstein, 2005 Trollinger, 12% abv, from Bottwartal-Kellerei. I hadn’t even heard of Trollinger before, not having seen any on the shelves of the wine-stores back home, but it is also known as Schiava Grossa in Italy and is rumoured to be able to produce full bodied wines. Unfortunately this one failed miserably as any form of red, but I thoroughly enjoyed it anyway once I had mentally re-categorised it as a rosè, as which it was one of the best I’ve had! The deep ruby colour matched many a Spanish Rosado, it had a light berry nose and a Strawberry & Cream flavour to match.
If the manufacturer had marketed it as a dry rosè I’m sure it would win many fans, unfortunately this was the last nail in the proverbial coffin for my investigation into German reds, it had been 2 days and I needed something dry and full bodied. Before finishing that night I ordered a glass of South African Merlot, the Lourensford Five Heirs 2004 Merlot. W.O. Stellenbosch, 14.5%. Smooth and rich it just what was needed.
For the final night in Bremen we went to Del Bosco Trattorria, the Italian Restaurant in the Hotel. To my delight the menu contained one of my must have foods when I go to Germany, pan-fried calf-liver with onions (Kalbsleber mit zweibel), preceeded by a fantastic baked artichoke with prawns in a tomato sauce with grilled cheese topping.
We decided to stay Italian for the wine and went for the Masi Campofiorin 2004. IGT, Veneto. This is a Double fermeted Valpolicella Ripasso, made from Corvina & Molinara varieties, and is from a classic producer from the region - I’d had their Costasera Amarone Classico a few years ago which was an experience that has guaranteed a lifelong love-affair with Amarone. The ligher Campofiorin was a delicious and fruity accompaniment to the meal and the perfect red wine to finish a visit to Germany!
I have to say that, following this trip, my opinion of German red wines has not improved. Of the 4 main varieties used, Spätburgunder, Dornfelder, Portugieser and Trollinger, it is the first two that can (and I have to assume do) produce the more full bodied wines the British and American markets generally like, however locally the lighter reds seem to take preference and with these on offer I will stay with Riesling (or Silvaner if I can find it).
Greybeard, December 2007/ January 2008.
Mark Twain once observed, “The researches of many commentators have already thrown much darkness on this subject, and it is probable that if they continue we shall soon know nothing at all about it.” Terroir is such a subject. It simultaneously describes, mystifies, and annoys. Newbies fear it, wine merchants exploit it, professionals parse it. The chatter is considerable. So, then, what is it about the concept of terroir that generates such cultural noise? Precisely its ambiguity, which is also to say, its flexibility. Many a commentator will point out that no equivalent English definition exists. Yes and no. A quick glance at an early edition of the Oxford English Dictionary shows a sad little 15th century entry for terroir of a half-inch length, easily understood when placed against the multiple pages of definitions of soil, a historical synonym. Soil, in fact, comprehends terroir but only for the most philologically inclined. 
The French word terroir has perhaps been frozen in a pastoral avocation while the more inclusive English language juggernaut rolled on, allowing soil to accumulate centuries of scientific, cultural and poetic shades of meaning. Terroir remains, finally, semantically underdeveloped. Hence, I suggest, the concept of terroir, in its modern, discordant usages, is a consequence of its having been Balkanized by the academy, wine writers, and commercial interests, English-speakers in the main.
Indeed, terroir belongs to an abundance of modern lexicons including 1) the Scientific, specifically Geology and Enology; 2) the Historical, I would include select vignerons, some learned contemporaries, to be sure, though I’m thinking here especially of the attentive monks of Burgundy who, over hundreds of years found the finest sites; 3) the Cultural, our space; 4) the Experiential, everyday drinkers, our space as well; 5) and Everything else. For my purposes I will touch only on a bit of the Scientific material on the matter to illustrate my point.
Andrew Jefford, long a champion of terroir, writes in the introduction to his most excellent ‘The New France’ (see Books sidebar), Terroir “The Print of Place: Consistency, varietal character, depth of fruit, oak integration: these are qualities of absolute irrelevance to French AOC wine. Instead, its aim and its reason for being is to lend a sensual print to rock, stone, slope, and sky.” Contrast his remark to that of the great wine technologist Emile Peynaud, where in his ‘Connaissance et travail du vin’, he does not mention terroir at all, “The influence of climate, different varieties of grapes, picking the grapes at various stages of ripeness, vinification techniques, and methods of storing have all contributed to creating a considerable number of types of wine.” Neither does Marian W. Baldy PH.D mention terroir in her University Wine Course where she writes, “The composition of grapes is influenced by factors that modify their temperature and light-sensitive physiological processes [….] Some of the aroma- and flavor-modifying factors cannot be altered very much by cultural practices and have to be decided upon when the vineyard is planted. Grape variety, soil depth and texture, and climate are examples of these more fixed factors.” So what is the principle difference between Jefford’s position and those of Peynaud and Baldy? In Peynaud’s case, it is the omission of soil as a factor. In Baldy’s? Merely a shift to another semantic register.
To take two other academic examples. Geologist James E. Wilson writes in his book Terroir, (see Books sidebar) “Terroir has become a buzz word in English language literature. This lighthearted use disregards reverence for the land which is a critical, invisible element of the term. The true concept is not easily grasped but includes physical elements of the vineyard habitat - the vine, subsoil, siting, drainage, and microclimate. [T]here is an additional dimension - the spiritual aspect that recognizes the joys, the heartbreaks, the pride, the sweat, and the frustrations of its history.” Against this we have Dr. Ron S. Jackson, from his Wine Science, “[Terroir] has too often been misused to imply that it proves that regional wine, especially from famous regions, possess some unique and unreproducible sensorial character. [G]iven sufficient analysis, regional wines usually can be differentiated chemically. However… [e]vidence does not support the view that individuals can consistently detect or recognize such differences.” The contrast among these two authors? Dr. Jackson simply does not entertain Wilson’s “spiritual aspect”. It is not relevant to his understanding of the concept. Yet he does concede “regional wines usually can be differentiated chemically”, but are just not humanly perceptible(!)
And with respect to Jefford’s? Still from ‘The New France’, “[T]he only trustworthy wine tastings are those conducted ‘blind’, that is without sight of bottles or labels.” Again, no strong contradiction as such among authors, merely greater or lesser borrowings from the flexible semantic field of a shared word, terroir.
It has been rightly said that scientists are educated but uncultured and that those in the Humanities are cultured but uneducated. Terroir is a word that belongs to both worlds. It is, therefore, hardly surprising that, baring the welcomed ascendance of academic hybrids, the noise will continue.
Admin
Once upon a time there was a beautiful girl named Alienor who was the daughter of the powerful Duke Guillaume of Aquitaine and Poitou. She lived during the 12th Century and became the Queen to the King Louis VII in 1137 and then annulled the marriage on the basis they were 3rd cousins only to marry the future King of England, Henry II who she was even more closely related. Actually they all were related quite closely, but Henry was 13 years her junior and you have to give Eleanor as she was now known her due, she made off with a royal toy boy. It’s a lot more complicated than that, but I like my version that she got tired of one King and exchanged him for a much younger King. I mean, who does that? Completely awesome!
The 12th century was the time of the great crusades, the court of Thomas of Beckett’s murder, and two very famous sons of Eleanor’s, Richard otherwise known as “Lionheart” (ringing a bell now) and John, both Kings of England. 
This was a time of dangerous politics and Eleanor was no wallflower. She tried to overthrow her husband and place her children on the throne of England. Why would she do this? Henry was having a very public affair with a courtier and there was talk of divorce. With the possibilities of new heirs and the bitterness of being cheated on, I think Eleanor took care of her business. Gives a new meaning to that old saying “Hell hath no Fury like a Woman Scorned” doesn’t it? She was placed under house arrest by her husband for 15 years and separated from her children. Henry died during a jousting tournament and Richard the Lionheart ascended the throne and immediately freed his mother and made her Regent during his 3rd Crusade. When Richard died, John was named heir. Eleanor had a lot to do with that too, but we’re just hitting high points.
So what does all this ancient medieval history have anything to do with Bordeaux? Everything. Without England having the Aquitaine as part of its lands, we would not have Bordeaux as we have it today. Aquitaine was an independent duchy (think Luxembourg) when Eleanor inherited it after her fathers’ death those lands encompassed what is now 1/3 of modern France.
Now you see how Eleanor married two Kings. In the heart of those lands are the Gironde and the port of Bordeaux and La Rochelle. She was a powerful woman during this age of men, war and crusades. Eleanor’s father was clever and insured his daughter’s independence; because only until Eleanor’s heir advanced to the throne could the duchy be incorporated into the country the heir ruled. Until the heir ruled, the Aquitaine remained Eleanor’s.
Bordeaux didn’t become important as a wine port until after Eleanor’s death in 1204. Eleanor didn’t favor Bordeaux; she, like her father gave favor to the port of La Rochelle. Salt was one of La Rochelle’s main commodities and from Roman times to her day salt was expensive and valuable. It was King John who opened the port of Bordeaux to royal favor by allowing access to the English market. But it wasn’t until 1224 when Louis VIII captured Poitiers that Bordeaux’s fortunes really changed. La Rochelle sided with France, Bordeaux with England. La Rochelle stayed with the Kingdom of France, the Aquitaine was reduced in size and Bordeaux entered a golden era with the rise of the merchant class, known as the Bourgeois. Yes, it was much more complicated than that, but you get the idea.
With Bordeaux remaining loyal to England, it gained tremendous favor and power and Bordeaux wine (there was other trade as well) began to flow into England. During this time, the Medoc didn’t have many vines nor was it the size it is today. The wines produced from the area around the city of Bordeaux were from Graves, Entre deux Mers and Blaye. But this was only a small segment, most of the wines came from the surrounding areas including Cahors and Bergerac and further down into the Languedoc and Perigord. But Bordeaux wanted to promote the local wine, restrict the outsiders and improve the coffers of the city, so trade restrictions were set forth specifying when the outlaying regions were allowed to bring their wine to Bordeaux for export with many other conditions.
The newly active Bourgeois (Merchant class) devised rules and regulations to promote Bordeaux and formed a easy to collect tax system that was favored by parliament. Many of the rules were very unfair including barrel regulations which other regions shipping through the port of Bordeaux could not have as many hoops securing the seals of the wood staves creating leaks and accelerating the aging process. Many wines from the outside areas were never sold being allowed to sour and be dumped before finding a buyer. Subsequently Bordeaux wine flourished in England and approximately 40,000 tonneaux a year was imported. 1,000 tonneaux is equal to approximately 1 million bottles; the bottles were of equitable volume to today’s bottles. All the wine was shipped in barrel; chateau bottling didn’t arrive until the 20th century.
So, that is how England came to own a big chunk of France for 300 years. It was only until the end of the 100 Years War and the defeat of Bordeaux’s governor, John Talbot, the first Earl of Shrewsbury, at the Battle of Castillon (just outside St. Emilion) in 1453 was the duchy removed from English rule. Bordeaux remained mostly independent and was annexed to the Kingdom of France in 1653 when Louis XIV entered the city. As a side note, the Earl lost his life during the battle, but his name lives on with the famous St. Julien property he owned while Governor. Chateau Talbot has been consistently producing beautiful wine since the Earl owned it. We’ll have more on the rise of Bordeaux in the next installment. Oh! And a Pope who made wine enters the scene.
Donna
Japanese food seemed a good idea for a late Thursday lunch towards the end of a busy week and Kyoto a relatively new restaurant and is part of the Tokyo Sky nightclub in the shopping centre. We found it by accident as we were heading for another restaurant in the centre but it was closed for a private function – I’m glad it was!
The menu has a wonderful selection of sushi, sashimi, soup, noodles and main dishes and we went through it at least twice to try and whittle down the candidates. Meantime we ordered a superb Graham Beck Cap Classique, the South African Méthode Traditionelle sparkling wine. This was their non-vintage Brut, a very drinkable Pinot Noir Chardonnay blend coming in at a restaurant price of £9 ($18).
We watched the Japanese sushi chef at work for a few minutes until the first dishes arrived and I never cease to be amazed at the level of skill involved in quickly preparing good seafood. I’d already heard about the good match between sushi and Champagne, and this South African equivalent was spot-on for the food (it wasn’t bad on its own either!).
The Tempura prawns and Kyoto’s speciality spring rolls with dips were wonderful, while a combination of different sushi and sahimi made up the rest of our meal. I especially liked the Unagi nigiri (grilled eel) and the melt-in-the-mouth Salmon sashimi. The wasabi was really potent, an added bonus!
Seafood is popular in South Africa, and the quality is excellent - in Fourways itself (which is an offshoot of the Sandton suburb of Johannesburg) there must be at least 6 decent sushi/sashimi restaurants to choose from, whereas back home we’re struggling to reach that number in my whole region, which has a far greater population and area. This was the second time I’ve had Japanese food in this country and both times the food has been far superior to anything I’ve had in the U.K.
The bill for two of us, including the fizz, came in at about 350 Rand, less than £26 ($52) which makes me a little sad, since in the UK you’d typically pay double the price for something not as good. My local guide Caroline made a note of returning soon with her friends.
Greybeard– November 2007.
My hostess Caroline had told me Tony’s Spaghetti Grill was a regular haunt of hers and, even though it was a Wednesday night, the atmosphere was buzzing and the tables full. This may have had something to do to a second night of rolling power outages in the surrounding residential areas, something being seen more and more as the South African Power Grid doesn’t seem able to keep up with demand.
Pasta and Pizza dominated the menu, a good selection of Italian favourites. For wine we went for a dry Boschendal 2007 Blanc de Noir Rosé (32 % Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon,21.5% Shiraz, 16.5% Ruby Cabernet, and 7% Pinot noir). This promised to be a good complement to the range of food we were browsing through.
I had a bowl of mussels to start with, as earlier in the week I’d passed up on something similar and ended up with a disappointing salad instead. Here the shellfish weren’t quite as good, but still tasty.
The surprise of the evening was the main course. I’d plumped for a baked Calzone Tradizionale - ham, pepperoni, mushrooms, olives and cheese. It arrived on the table and it was ENORMOUS! I cut into it and melted cheese oozed out revealing thick strata of the various ingredients. It was delicious, each mouthful giving a slightly different flavour combination, I especially enjoyed the ones where black olives dominated. The Rose did go remarkably well with this and we happily finished the bottle, but alas the Calzone defeated me – I had to request a doggy-bag and took it back to my hotel (where it provided a hearty snack the next evening!).
The meal came to about 300 Rand (£22.50, $45) and was well worth it. The restaurant is fun and lively, the staff are friendly and attentive and the food & wine was good. I envy Caroline as she lives nearby and can pop in here whenever she feels like.
Greybeard – November 2007.
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