Greybeard’s Corner, November 2009
Ξ December 15th, 2009 | → 0 Comments | ∇ Uncategorized |
As winter approached the U.K. a major wine retailer succumbed to the bitter climate, England’s Vineyards reported a good harvest and somehow I ended up in places I rarely visit – London, France & Germany.
The main news in the wine media for November was the bankruptcy of First Quench, the parent company of Wine Rack, Threshers, The Local, Haddows, Bottoms Up and Victoria Wine retail stores. The company went into administration at the end of October but initial reports suggested most stores would continue trading while new buyers were found. However, by the end of November it was confirmed that over 780 of their 1200 stores would be closed by Christmas. Apart from a few single stores scattered around the country only 14 stores in the South East & London were saved as a group, along with the Wine Rack name, as reported by Decanter.com. By the end of November over 4,000 redundancies had been confirmed with more guaranteed, including my local Wine Rack in nearby Hexham, the last dedicated wine outlet in the market town other than Supermarkets.
Better news came with the first reports of England’s 2009 harvest, which appears universally good. I received an e-mail from Three Choirs Vineyards which confirmed that 3 weeks of picking had brought in 200 tonnes of grapes with “excellent” quality and sugar levels – more than the 2007 and 2008 harvests combined (although still only half of the bumper crop of 2006). A good 2009 looks to be a consistent theme across Europe as vintage reports keep coming in.
As for me, the beginning of November had me in Ingelheim-am-Rhein, a small town in the Rhineland Palatinate, west of Frankfurt in the Rheinhessen wine region. Ingelheim is known as the Rotweinstadt (Red wine town) and while I didn’t drink anything remarkable while there I came home with a box set of 6 wines; two each of a Riesling, a Blauer-Portugueiser and a Spätburgunder from the local Ingelheimer Winzerkellar. More memorable was a delicious Luxembourg Riesling in the KLM lounge at Schipol on the way home, the 2007 Paradaïs from Château Pauqué which had a honeysuckle and honey nose with an oily texture and a zesty light taste.
My other main business trip was just outside of Paris. It’s not often I travel to France so I try and make the most of the experience and this time it was made easier by my French colleagues treating me to an Haute Cuisine meal in the small town of Osny. The restaurant was Le Moulin de la Renardière and the classic menu and wine list promised a good evening. While my French colleagues all went for the Foie gras de canard to start I decided on the decidedly more rustic Aspic de queues de bœuf – a meaty oxtail brawn.
My main course of Parmentier of Duck Confit with a thin layer of Foie Gras and parsnip puree followed the same rustic theme, and both were delicious. For wine accompaniment we decided to stay with Givry in Burgundy for both white and red, starting with the 2007 Blanc by Remoissenet Pere & Fils of Beaune. This had plenty of oak, dry with good balance and complexity with a citrus finish. The Givry Rouge from the same producer was a step up in quality; the 2000 Vintage started with an earthy, almost dirty nose but had perfect balance and was delicate, subtle and elegant in the mouth. I am unfamiliar with the Givry Appellation but was impressed by these introductions, and the refined atmosphere of the classic restaurant reminded me that good French food and wine takes some beating!
The day before at our hotel, itself a converted Chateau we’d enjoyed a much less ostentatious meal along with the Domaine du Roncee 2007 Chinon, a wine that was a bit light on its own but with enough fruit & complexity to be perfect with food, especially the chèvre salad which was my starter.
The return trip through Paris Charles de Gaulle airport had me tasting some pleasant wines in the lounge before take-off, including the smoky, spiced fruit Chateay Tour Seran 2004 from the Medoc and the 2005 Probus Cahors by Baldes which had deep berry fruit and a liquorice nose, however, the 2006 Côtes de Beaune Villages by J. Drouhin was dull and disappointing.
In between these trips I had a long weekend in London as travelling companion to my better half as she attended her own business meeting. I usually try and avoid the capital if at all possible (I’m just a country boy at heart!) but once there a trip to Vinopolis, the wine-themed visitor attraction, was essential.
Vinopolis, on the South Bank of the Thames near London Bridge, celebrated its 10th anniversary this year and I plan on expanding on this visit in a separate piece, so suffice to say I spent a long and enjoyable afternoon wandering through the various exhibits and tasting some of the dozens of wines available, including the Clos de Cana 2001 from Lebanon’s Bekaa valley. This rich red had liquorice and aniseed on the nose, with firm tannins, balanced acidity and fruit and some caramel on the finish – impressing me so much I had to pick up a bottle to add to my ever increasing Lebanese section at home.
Back in Newcastle and the main wine experience was the monthly NEWTS (North East Wine Tasting Society) tasting – this time a producer I am more than familiar with, Château Pesquié from the Côtes du Ventoux. You may know I spent a fantastic week there in 2008 as guests of the family, including working in the vines and winery, therefore it was with interest that I tried the wines as part of a presentation by 2 other society members who have also visited the Château.
It is fair to say the tasting was a success with the exception of the 2008 Perle de Rosé, which was embarrassing for me as, during my stay at Pesquie, I picked some of the grapes destined for this wine and was present at its inoculation.
However, the other Pesquié wines were well received with the 2006 Quintessence Rouge voted best on the night and the 2005 Quintessence Blanc praised for being one of the best Rhône whites tasted in recent years. The opulent 2005 Artemia was enjoyed for its style and concentration of flavour, but its higher price raised questions of value compared to the Quintessence.
Unsurprisingly November’s purchases reflect some of the travelling done with the average price (and hopefully quality) greater than usual. Prolonged browsing of airport Duty Free can sometimes be dangerous and at Schipol I couldn’t resist the Marchesi di Barolo 2004 Barolo, for just under £40, to make a trio of ’04 Barolos in my collection (the other two were much cheaper!). The well stocked (and mostly French) wine section of Paris Charles de Gaulle airport tempted me with the Steinert Grand Cru 2005 Pinot Gris by Pfaffenheim and “les Marchais” 2004 Gevrey-Chambertin by Faiveley – purchases which continue to see France as the largest part of my modest store at 25% of bottles. For reference Australia and Germany are joint second at 11% each followed by Italy & Lebanon at 8%.
The majority of the remaining bottles bought came from the demise of Wine Rack as I joined in amongst the circling vultures to take advantage of the 30% off death-throes and ended up with bottles including the Duetorri Amarone Classico 2005 and Château Filhot’s 1999 Sauternes, which is likely to end up as a Christmas dessert wine this year.
Thanks to the generosity of a colleague I also acquired the 2006 and 2007 vintages of Château St. Georges, St. Georges St. Emilion to join the 2003 which I am planning on opening shortly, again possibly for the Christmas festivities.
And so onto drinking, and the various glasses tasted at multiple restaurants mean a month with far too much to detail to fully recount, although most of it merely of quaffing value.
A few notables included the Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr 2005 Gewurztraminer Reserve which was a model of typicity with a sweet floral aroma and spicy lychee nose.
The 2007 Tamar Ridge Tasmanian Pinot Noir, made especially for Marks & Spencers, was an elegant and fruity New World Pinot with light forest fruits and some Christmas spice, while for a venerable wine the Lagunilla 1999 Rioja Gran Reserva showed delicate elegance, with an auburn & brick colour on the swirl and a smoky nose. Light-medium bodied with gentle acidity and smooth, aged tannins it had some cherry and a refreshing finish.
Of course these are dangerously close to mainstream drinking, so I redeemed myself with a pair of slightly more off-beat offerings.
First was the very drinkable Alsace Pinot Noir (my first) from Cave de Turkheim, the 2004 Élevé en Fût de Chêne which had a pleasant smoky bacon aspect. Second was the Disznókö Tokaji Dry Furmint 2006 was also very good, showing how this newer style of dry Tokaji coming out of Hungary is to be embraced as equally as its sweeter relation.
November has gone, December is upon us and the festive month is no doubt likely to provide a Bacchanalian tale for the next ‘corner, until then, Slainte!
Greybeard
