Ξ May 14th, 2013 | → 0 Comments | ∇ A Day at a Time |
Every spring I am pleased to find in my mailbox the Wines Of Portugal invitation to their annual tasting in San Francisco. I do not travel to many such events, but Portugal has long had a strong purchase on my imagination, not to mention my palate. It may be Californian wines for my compatriots, but for me, the lean, bright, very fresh and age-worthy Portuguese wines, especially the reds, have long been a kind of benchmark against which I think wine. After all, though figures vary, well over 200 (other sources tally it well over 300) grape varieties grace the mainland and the Azores. Not all varieties of indigenous grapes are vinified by the larger producers into single variety wines or even blends, far from it. Indeed, a far greater diversity of grapes and wines may be found in villages throughout the countryside where hundreds of small producers respond to local tastes, cuisine and agricultural traditions. This is another way of saying that many grape varieties are unmarketable owing not only to a matter of scale, that their production levels too low, but also that their flavors are thought by commercial development interests to be too out of step with consumer tastes.
This is the great paradox of the Wines of Portugal events, both here and abroad. Why boast of a patrimony of hundreds of varieties when so few may be tasted (under 50 at the SF event by my casual count) ? And most of those varieties were in blends, a practice at which the Portuguese understandably excel. But I will save this complex topic for another time.
The venue, a central room in the august Bently Reserve, was very well attended, wall to wall, with new folks coming in all the time. The producers, distributors and importers had their hands full patiently explaining the character of the many unheard-of grapes, just where Alentejo, Bairrada or Vinho Verde were located. Large maps were well-placed to assist the geographically challenged. By my count, some 40 wine companies and winery representatives were present, with fewer winemaker than in past years. But for so exhausting a touring schedule, all the official participants, true professionals, remained focused and friendly as only the Portuguese can be.
Of the whites, Alvarinho and Arinto dominated with luscious examples of Loureiro and Fernão Pires also to be found.
Of the reds, yes, the dependable and rich Touriga Nacional was present, but curiously under-represented considering all the buzz surrounding this grape just a few years ago. And Baga was spotlighted, among my favorite Portuguese varieties – yet among the least celebrated internationally owning to both its harsh youthful character and its aging potential. In short, one does not buy a 2011 for drinking at dinner that night. The same could be said for Ramisco, also alert and standing tall, though as rare on the tasting table as it is in Portugal. The often over-cropped Espadeiro, too, was present, though largely lost in blends. I found an interesting single variety rose. I’ve enjoyed single variety Espadeiros when in the Vinho Verde region, especially when it is made in a rustic style, the acid brutal. It is a hard grape to love, but with the right local cuisine, I find it bracing with its ‘in-your-face’ freshness.
All in all, the tasting was a real eye-opener, even for me. I was very pleased to witness yet again the diligence and persistence of the Wines of Portugal. We all know of the tremendous financial difficulties now sweeping across the globe, so that a trade organization can still find the resources to organize and finance such an elegant event is nothing more than astonishing. I wish them well.
Please visit the refreshed Wines of Portugal website. It contains a wealth of information. Obrigado, Portugal!
Admin, Ken Payton